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{"id":1163,"date":"2013-05-31T15:36:18","date_gmt":"2013-05-31T19:36:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/?p=1163"},"modified":"2016-12-29T19:06:33","modified_gmt":"2016-12-30T00:06:33","slug":"choosing-cassette-gearing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/2013\/05\/31\/choosing-cassette-gearing\/","title":{"rendered":"Choosing Cassette Gearing"},"content":{"rendered":"

While we've already dealt with choosing crankset gearing<\/a>, you may still be in the dark about choosing cassette gearing. \u00a0Along with your crankset gearing, that cluster of cogs on your back wheel is what will determine if you're toddling happily up the next climb or walking (and cursing) on the way up.<\/p>\n

So how do you assure that you're not plodding when you should be pedaling? \u00a0What factors go into choosing a proper cassette to match your ability and terrain?<\/p>\n

Let's\u00a0look at how to choose the proper gearing for you.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Match Your\u00a0Cassette Gearing<\/h2>\n

As obvious as it seems, this should be the first consideration taken when replacing a cassette, either due to wear or as an upgrade. \u00a0(As a side note, a cassette is probably one of the worst upgrades in terms of benefit per dollar spent. \u00a0Most of the lower end models shift just as well and actually last much longer than the high end models, so don't think you NEED to upgrade a cassette.) \u00a0Of course, the idea of replacing like with like assumes you're comfortable with the gearing you had and have no need to change to a different gearing. \u00a0If you're one of the lucky few who's happy with what they have, just replace what you have with one of the same size and you'll be ready to rock and roll.<\/span><\/p>\n

Time For Change?<\/span><\/h3>\n

If you're in the market for change, you'll need to figure out where your old gearing was lacking, and\u00a0as I wrote in the choosing <\/span>crankset gearing article:<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

“This choice almost exclusively comes down to your conditioning and the terrain you regularly ride in.”<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

While we were talking about crankset gearing at the time, this rings true for cassettes as well. \u00a0It makes no sense to run an 11-21 cassette when you're doing 45-minute climbs, and it doesn't make much sense to run an 11-32 gearing for a flat criterium. \u00a0Let's go through different situations and see what will help guide your choice.<\/p>\n

\"Cassette<\/a>Terrain<\/b><\/p>\n

The kind of terrain you ride is one of the biggest factors in choosing a cog set. \u00a0If you're in the hills, you'll want to start with a 25t large cog and think about going larger from there. \u00a0If you tend to ride longer climbs or very steep climbs, consider a 27t or 28t large cog on your cassette. \u00a0For those who are doing loaded touring or just have weak climbing legs, consider a 30t\u00a0or 32t large cog. \u00a0The tradeoff for those reduced gear inches is a significant increase in the gaps between cogs: sometimes more than four teeth.<\/p>\n

For flatlanders, big cogs are pretty useless. \u00a0Consider a 21t cog and go up from there if you do occasionally venture into the hills. \u00a0The smaller range of an 11-21 or 12-23 cassette will give you smaller jumps between gears, letting you fine tune your cadence.<\/p>\n

Fitness<\/b><\/p>\n

This, combined with the terrain around you are probably the biggest determinants of what gearing to bolt onto your wheel. \u00a0If you're an extremely strong rider, you can get away with a smaller range of cogs, while novices or those who are early in their season may want a larger range of cogs. \u00a0An 11-25 or 12-25 cog set is a perfect “all around” cassette, offering the 25t cog for moderate climbs and the 11t or 12t cog for downhill spins or fast, flat sprints. \u00a0For less experienced riders, a 12-27t or 11-28t cassette is probably the better choice.<\/p>\n

Technique<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"rearRiding technique also plays a big part in your gear selection. \u00a0Depending upon your preference to spin a little gear vs mash out a huge gear, you'll want to equip your rear wheel appropriately. \u00a0Spinners will probably look for a larger cog, somewhere in the 27t range, while mashers may be perfectly happy with a 25t or 23t. \u00a0Of special note for a rider who prefers to spin a gear will be the gaps between cogs; look for a cassette with a 12t or 13t\u00a0small cog, which will prevent the gaps from being very large and giving you trouble in finding your sweet spot cadence.<\/p>\n

Matching Your Cranks<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

So you've taken all the above into consideration and you're ready to make your decision. \u00a0Hold on a second there! \u00a0One last thing to consider will be the gearing you've chosen up front: after all, a 11-25t cassette may be perfect for you in all circumstances, but if you're riding a standard double (39\/53t) in the steep hills, you may want to stop and consider moving to something with just a little bit more low gearing on it. \u00a0Conversely, if you're riding some pretty large hills or your legs just aren't up to snuff and you've decided on an 11-28t cassette, maybe you can downsize a bit to an 11-26t if you're running \u00a0mid-compact gearing (36\/50t). \u00a0Or if you're running a compact crank (34\/50t) you might even be able to get away with a 12-25 and have some really nice, tight ratios.<\/p>\n

My Personal Favorite Combinations<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

So it comes down to this: my favorite gearing combinations and my recommendations for which cassette pairs well with which chainring configuration. \u00a0In the chart below, you'll find some recommended cassette options for specific crank configurations, along with the high and low gearing numbers (in gear inches, or the number of inches the bike will move forward for one pedal stroke.) \u00a0By reading the chart, you can see the way changing a cassette can dramatically alter a crankset's characteristics.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Crankset Configuration<\/td>\nGears Appropriate for Climbing (Hilly Terrain)<\/td>\nHigh\/Low Gear Inches (climbing)<\/span><\/td>\nGears Appropriate for Flat Terrain (or Crits)<\/td>\nHigh\/Low Gear Inches (flat)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Standard Double (39\/<\/span>53t<\/span>)<\/span><\/td>\n12-27t<\/td>\n116.1\/38<\/span><\/td>\n11-23t<\/td>\n126.6\/44.6<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Mid Compact Double (36\/<\/span>50t)<\/span><\/td>\n11-26t<\/span><\/td>\n119.5\/36.4<\/span><\/td>\n11-21t<\/span><\/td>\n119.5\/45.1<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Compact Double (34\/<\/span>50t)<\/span><\/td>\n12-25t<\/td>\n109.5\/35.7<\/span><\/td>\n11-<\/span>21t<\/td>\n119.5\/42.5<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

If you look around the web, you'll find\u00a0there is a\u00a052t\u00a0big ring option for the mid compact crank, which I didn't include in the above comparison. \u00a0The reason why is that the difference in two\u00a0is more or less insignificant (at that high range anyway), much like the difference between a\u00a038t\u00a0and\u00a039t\u00a0standard ring. \u00a0Additionally, the concept of a 36\/50t\u00a0mid compact is to solve the problem of the large\u00a016t\u00a0jump between rings; adding a\u00a052t\u00a0large ring removes that advantage.<\/p>\n

Note that I didn't include any mention of a triple in this chart, and there's a good reason for that. \u00a0Triples (as I commented on in this post<\/a>) are essentially a thing of the past. \u00a0Not many companies make them anymore, and if you're going to see one it will likely be on a loaded touring bike that will be sporting a large “pie plate” cassette on the rear wheel.<\/p>\n

It's also worth noting that the above combinations are only my favorite starting points. \u00a0I selected them based upon the high and low ratios, the size of the steps between cogs, a 700c\u00a023mm tire, an average length 172.5mm crank arm and based them upon a reasonably fit\u00a0recreational rider. \u00a0Of course, if your fitness is better or worse, you can adapt those suggestions to your situation as necessary.<\/p>\n

If you're looking for an opinion on my favorite pieces of equipment to put on your hubs, I'm particularly fond of [easyazon_link identifier=”B002KNLX10″ locale=”US” tag=”taicoaandthed-20″]Shimano cassettes[\/easyazon_link]. \u00a0They seem to shift better than their SRAM counterparts from all the riding I've done. \u00a0If you have Campagnolo, you're pretty much using Campy parts, so there's not much choice there anyway.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Questions? \u00a0Have something to add? \u00a0Don't hesitate to start the discussion.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\n
\n
Tailwind Coaching Newsletter<\/a>!<\/label><\/div>\n<\/form>\n<\/div>\n

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While we’ve already dealt with choosing crankset gearing, you may still be in the dark about choosing cassette gearing. Along with your crankset gearing, that cluster of cogs on your back wheel is what will determine if you’re toddling happily up the next climb or walking (and cursing) on the way up. <\/p>\n

So how do you assure that you’re not plodding when you should be pedaling? What factors go into choosing a proper cassette to match your ability and terrain? <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2635,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[82,44],"tags":[177,66,170],"yst_prominent_words":[2282,2215,2212,2285,2276,2288,2286,2213,2287,2279,2278,542,2283,2277,1090,2289,2281,2290,2280,2284],"wppr_data":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/bike_gearsP8094810e.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1163"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1163"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1163\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8929,"href":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1163\/revisions\/8929"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2635"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1163"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1163"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1163"},{"taxonomy":"yst_prominent_words","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/yst_prominent_words?post=1163"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}