While we've already dealt with choosing crankset gearing<\/a>, you may still be in the dark about choosing cassette gearing. \u00a0Along with your crankset gearing, that cluster of cogs on your back wheel is what will determine if you're toddling happily up the next climb or walking (and cursing) on the way up.<\/p>\n So how do you assure that you're not plodding when you should be pedaling? \u00a0What factors go into choosing a proper cassette to match your ability and terrain?<\/p>\n Let's\u00a0look at how to choose the proper gearing for you.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n As obvious as it seems, this should be the first consideration taken when replacing a cassette, either due to wear or as an upgrade. \u00a0(As a side note, a cassette is probably one of the worst upgrades in terms of benefit per dollar spent. \u00a0Most of the lower end models shift just as well and actually last much longer than the high end models, so don't think you NEED to upgrade a cassette.) \u00a0Of course, the idea of replacing like with like assumes you're comfortable with the gearing you had and have no need to change to a different gearing. \u00a0If you're one of the lucky few who's happy with what they have, just replace what you have with one of the same size and you'll be ready to rock and roll.<\/span><\/p>\n If you're in the market for change, you'll need to figure out where your old gearing was lacking, and\u00a0as I wrote in the choosing <\/span>crankset gearing article:<\/span><\/p>\n “This choice almost exclusively comes down to your conditioning and the terrain you regularly ride in.”<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n While we were talking about crankset gearing at the time, this rings true for cassettes as well. \u00a0It makes no sense to run an 11-21 cassette when you're doing 45-minute climbs, and it doesn't make much sense to run an 11-32 gearing for a flat criterium. \u00a0Let's go through different situations and see what will help guide your choice.<\/p>\nMatch Your\u00a0Cassette Gearing<\/h2>\n
Time For Change?<\/span><\/h3>\n
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