![\"Shimano](\"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/ewwu111-225x300.jpeg\")
<\/p>\nShimano has been in the electronic shifting game since Dura Ace 7970 was introduced in 2009. \u00a0Their E-Tube system debuted with Ultegra 6770 in 2012 and continues to be the standard in electronic shifting systems today. \u00a0You had to take your bike to a local bike shop that had an expensive adapter and computer program to tune the drivetrain and update firmware.<\/p>\n
Since then, Shimano has released the E-Tube app for iOs. \u00a0By adding some Bluetooth Low Energy components to your drivetrain, you can update firmware and tune your shifting from your iPad. \u00a0It's never been easier to tune and update your Di2 system.<\/p>\n
Click through the jump to learn what you need to use your iPad to tune your E-Tube Shimano Di2 system, including a video overview of the app and how to use it.<\/p>\n
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In order to use the Shimano E-Tube system, you'll need to ensure that your components are compatible. \u00a0If you're running old 10-speed Ultegra, you'll probably need a couple of upgrades to make things work.<\/p>\n
The heart of the operation is the Shimano EW-WUxxx sending unit. \u00a0This little device sits inline between two of the components in your Di2 system. \u00a0It relays information from the system to external devices through a BTLE signal. \u00a0It also outputs an ANT+ signal to connect with various head units such as Garmin Edge 520 and 820 units.<\/p>\n
Recently, Shimano refreshed their E-Tube line and now there are two different units on the market. \u00a0The original EW-WU101 is a small square unit with two sockets in one end. \u00a0The unit is designed to mount on your seat stay and sit in between the B junction and the rear derailleur. \u00a0Personally, I found this location to be ugly and prone to damage. \u00a0I ended up mounting it on the seat tube, later moving it inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/p>\n
The newer version, the [easyazon_link identifier=”B00NJNKPXM” locale=”US” tag=”taicoaandthed-20″]EW-WU111[\/easyazon_link] is a fully inline device that is best tucked away inside the bottom bracket.<\/p>\n
Be very careful to not purchase the old “D-Fly” ANT+ transmitter. \u00a0This old unit, model number SM-EWW01, is not BTLE compatible. \u00a0The EW-WU101 is no longer produced, it seems. \u00a0You may be able to find one on discount on Ebay or something similar.<\/p>\n
![\"Shimano](\"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/shimanobtdn110.jpg\")
<\/a>Shimano Di2 BTLE Compatible Battery (Or Battery Mount)<\/h3>\nYou'll need to upgrade the battery\/battery holder in order for your components to continue functioning. \u00a0Shimano claims the difference between the old battery\/holder and the new one is the memory capacity. \u00a0The BTLE protocol takes up more memory and these units sport enough memory to handle the protocol.<\/p>\n
For those of you using external batteries (such as the original 6770 Ultegra) you're in luck. \u00a0Shimano has made a pair of external battery mounts available to upgrade your system with. \u00a0The [easyazon_link identifier=”B01LZ1RT16″ locale=”US” tag=”taicoaandthed-20″]BM-DN100S[\/easyazon_link] is a short version designed for downtube mounting applications while the [easyazon_link identifier=”B01LX3E8AD” locale=”US” tag=”taicoaandthed-20″]BM-DN100L[\/easyazon_link] is the long, water bottle mount version.<\/p>\n
For those of you looking at an internal battery, you'll want to pick up the [easyazon_link identifier=”B01J5PHY68″ locale=”US” tag=”taicoaandthed-20″]BT-DN110[\/easyazon_link].<\/p>\n
In most cases, adding the BTLE gear to your system is a simple affair. \u00a0You'll need [easyazon_link identifier=”B00E4NP9JG” locale=”US” tag=”taicoaandthed-20″]one extra (short) cable[\/easyazon_link] to make the connection between the EW-WU101\/111 and the rest of your system. \u00a0Other than that, the only thing you need to be wary of is that you can't<\/i>\u00a0mix the old SM battery or sending unit with the new BT\/BM equipment.<\/p>\n
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I actually discovered this by swapping around a few pieces between my bike (new BT model BTLE setup) and my wife's bike (older SM model equipment.) \u00a0By plugging in the SM-EWW01 to my system, the whole bike was rendered inoperative. \u00a0The same was true of adding the EW-WU101 to her bike.<\/p>\n
So, be extra sure of that you're ordering to ensure you're getting the right parts.<\/p>\n
Installation is very simple. \u00a0You just need to pull the end of one wire out and plug in the sending unit. \u00a0Plug the new wire into the BTLE sending unit and reattach it to the component you took the original wire off of. \u00a0If you have a complete circuit (and everything is compatible) you should have no problem using your drivetrain.<\/p>\n
Hiding the EW sending unit is another matter entirely. \u00a0In some cases (see the photo on the right) you can hide it in the head tube\/downtube junction. \u00a0In my case, I chose to hide it in the bottom bracket shell. \u00a0If you're not interested in taking your whole bike apart, you can simply attach it to the chainstay, seat tube or another wire or cable. \u00a0I'd highly recommend hiding it in the frame, however. \u00a0The fewer parts that are exposed, the less chance of moisture penetration and failure. \u00a0Besides, it makes for a nice clean install and improves the aesthetic of the bike significantly.<\/p>\n
Once you're all wired up, everything is neatly tucked away and working properly, it's time to tune it up.<\/p>\n