![\"sram](\"https:\/\/tailwind-coaching.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/yaw1.jpg\" "\\"\\"")
<\/a>By now the new SRAM Red group has been available for about a year (if you recall it was introduced last year and ridden to great success by Tom Boonen in the spring classics.) \u00a0I've been using the shifters for a year now, and the front derailleur for only a few months less. \u00a0However, there is still some confusion about how to install the front derailleur properly.<\/p>\nInstalling the Yaw derailleur\u00a0isn't vastly different than installing your garden variety front derailleur (which is really every other one on the market) but there are some subtle differences that vastly change the unit's function. \u00a0Without taking these special steps into account, users may be significantly frustrated by the poor shifting performance and constant chain rub.<\/p>\n
After the jump, we'll go step by step through the installation process.<\/p>\n
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Prep Work<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n Before installing the Yaw derailleur, you'll need to ensure that you've removed the chain and you have the following tools:<\/p>\n Installation will vary a little bit depending upon if you're using a clamp style derailleur, a braze on with a separate band or a braze on with a frame mounted tab. \u00a0If you're using a braze on unit with a separate band, I HIGHLY<\/em> suggest one of the new style Red bands that have the “chain spotter” tab on them. \u00a0This will make setting the chain spotter a much simpler affair and it will be a much stouter setup in the long run.<\/p>\n Install The Clamp and Derailleur<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n The first order of business is to screw the derailleur into the band (if using one). \u00a0Smear a fine layer of carbon assembly paste onto the band and clamp it around the seat tube\/ Use the 4mm allen key to snug up the clamp bolt just enough so that it won't slide around without a little effort; you'll need to move the derailleur up and down the tube as well as twist it around to find the yaw angle, so don't clamp it down tight.<\/p>\n Setting The Height And Yaw Angle<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n The first order of business is to set the proper derailleur height. \u00a0To do this, we'll slide the derailleur down so that the front of the cage is touching the teeth of the large chainring, then we'll simply raise it up about 2mm off the teeth. \u00a0Alignment at this stage is not really important, only the clearance from the big ring is.<\/p>\n [pullquote]Missing this step results in poor shifting performance and\u00a0neverending\u00a0chain rub. [\/pullquote]To set the yaw angle, use your fingers to actively pull the cage over the big ring and begin tightening the low limit screw. \u00a0The ultimate goal is to center the cage over the big ring so we can set the yaw angle. \u00a0Once the low limit screw has the cage centered over the big ring, you need to align the cage properly. \u00a0You need to twist the derailleur around the seat tube in order to align the front and rear alignment marks (etched into the top of the cage in front and the top of the plastic part of the cage in the rear)\u00a0so that they line up directly with the big chainring.<\/p>\n This small step\u00a0is the one that many people miss, since it's different from installing a normal front derailleur. \u00a0Missing this step results in poor shifting performance and neverending chain rub. \u00a0Once the angle is set, double check the cage height over the big chainring and snug down the band bolt (or fixing bolt) with a 4mm allen key or torque wrench.<\/p>\n\n